Retinoids are probably the best anti-ageing ingredient.

Retinoids are a family of compounds which include Vitamin A and its derivatives.They remain, the best "anti-ageing" skin remedy out there. When applied to the skin, retinoids increase the rate of cell turnover and thus trigger changes in the skin which would qualify, on a superficial level, as "anti-ageing": a reduction in fine lines, lightening age spots and sun damage, pore minimising, and increased skin firmness.

There is an extensive article on retinoids in the April edition of U.S. Vogue.

The earlier forms of Vitamin A creams were first used to treat acne and were very effective, but often at the cost of red, scaly/flaky, hypersensitive skin. After the bad press on Accutane (a prescription-only oral form with numerous side effects, including clinical depression leading to suicidal tendencies, and causing severe birth defects if taken by during pregnancy), retinoid-based skin care treatments fell out of favour. However, they are making a comeback now, because they really are the only compounds out there that will provide guaranteed results.

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds that are related chemically to vitamin A. There are a number of different types of Retinoids found in skin care products including Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol and Retinoic Acid. I will be focusing on Retinol and Retinoic Acid in this article.

Retinol is the alcohol form of the vitamin A molecule, and is considered by many to be the purest and true form of Vitamin A. Retinol must be converted by our skin too.

Retinoic Acid before it can deliver any beneficial effects to the skin which our skin has the ability to do, provided the Retinol is in the correct delivery system.

Retinoic Acid is the acid form of Vitamin A. Dr. Albert Kligman discovered it when he researched cures for acne in the 1960s. Retinoic acid is patented because it is notin its natural form Ð it is a synthetic derivative of Vitamin A and therefore is available by prescription only. The prescription names you might be familiar with are Retin-A, Tretinoin, Aberela, Airol, Renova, Atralin, Avita, or Stieva-A, just to name a few.

What do Retinoids do?

Retinoids are known as cell communicating agents because they encourage skin cells to communicate and function normally. This is a process that is often disrupted during the ageing process. When Retinoids help skin to function normally your skin derives a number of benefits including:

• An increase in new skin cells due to an increase in cell turnover at the top layer of skin. Skin looks brighter and smoother
• Smoother, plumper skin due to an increase in collagen production
• A reduction in pore size because Retinoids can penetrate oil glands and help to unclog pores
• A reduction in skin pigmentation associated with sun damage or other hyper pigmentation disorders such as Melasma
• Protection against free radical damage due to its antioxidant action
• Retinoids are an integral part of any anti-aging skin care regimen because their regular use results in skin that is tighter, smoother, and brighter and blemish free.

Are all Retoinds equal?

No not at all. Retinoids have to be stable and should be in a delivery system that our epidermis and dermis can utilise. In order to be effective Retinoids must also be delivered in adequate concentration. If they are in a proper delivery system and at a proper percentage Retinoids help to stimulate the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin. The process also encourages our cells to function normally, energises cells and calms melanocytes.Translation: brown spots fade (with proper sun protection), fine lines and wrinkles diminish, skin takes on a healthy glow, skin looks firmer, and the texture of the skin will also improve.

Retinol promotes collagen synthesis so your skin gets stronger and healthier over time.

Retinol is mildly exfoliating and can cause some sloughing of the skin if there is damage because the “restoration process” so to speak has started. HOWEVER you have to allow your skin the time to acclimate to the Retinol. The acclimation period will vary from person to person. Over time your skin cells will increase the number of receptor cells each holds to drink in and utilise the very beneficial Retinoids and thus you can use them more and more frequently.

Do I have to avoid sun when I use a Retinoid and when do I use it?

While it is true that Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, you do not need to avoid sun. Apply the Retinoid in the evening and use a full spectrum sun block in the morning, rain or shine. If you are going on vacation and you will be out in the sun frequently, simply stop the use of your Retinoid product 10 days before you go and start using it when you come back. You might have to start using it slowly and build your way up to more frequent use again.

Who can use Retinoids?

Do not use Retinoids if you are pregnant or nursing.

Consider using Retinoids if you are concerned about

• Sun damage
• Pigmentation disorders
• Wrinkles and/or fine lines
• Acne

Younger looking, smoother and more luminous skins are your potential rewards. And do not wait until the damage is done – Retinoids are great preventatives and the earlier you start using them the better – you will reap the full benefits of this amazing anti-aging skin rejuvenator.

Skinceuticals - Refining Night Cream With 5% Pure Retinol. Apply it like it is the most precious cream in the world i.e. apply a tiny amount. Allow your skin time to become accustomed to it so initially use it 2 to 3 times per week