Antioxidants

Skin Ageing & the need for Antioxidants

Antioxidants are important to prevent environmental skin ageing  in combination with other products and treatments.Specifically, l-ascorbic acid based serums which play a very specific role in preventing oxidation, supporting the efficacy of sunscreen and reducing the amount of damage taking place in the skin so that corrective products can yield greater benefits than without the use of an antioxidant. This reduction in oxidation leads to improved collagen protection and production. You can most definitely use a corrective product containing retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, peptides or other ingredients and see some improvement in your skin.
Further, you may choose to  have laser treatments, microneedling and other  procedures to correct signs of damage and see some improvement. However, even with the best corrective products and protocols available, the original cause of the damage (UVA, UVB, Infrared, Pollution, Ozone, Visible Light ) still exists and continues to stimulate more damage at the same time you are trying to correct it. The skin has the ability to naturally heal itself and by supplementing that healing ability with l-ascorbic acid based serums, the skin is better protected and can focus on healing rather than defending against more damage. 

*Dr Pinnell, Dermatol Surg. Feb 2001

Discoloration (hyperpigmentation)  – the original cause of the discoloration, whether it is excessive sun exposure, hormones, pregnancy, a burn or acne – is still there in the form of inflammation and an up regulated production of excess melanin. If we simply treat the discoloration with a product for the brown spots without addressing the inflammation or the excess melanin production that process continues to take place. If  we add an l'-ascorbic acid based antioxidant to the skin care regimen, the inflammation is reduced which leads to normalization of melanin production which yields a visibly better result than without the antioxidant.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)

AHAs are naturally occurring substances found in fruits, sugar and sugar cane as well as soured milk. They are ideal for smoothing rough texture, fine lines and improving discoloration. They work by breaking the bonds between keratinized cells on the surface of the skin, sloughing them away and leaving the skin smoother and brighter. Glycolic Acid peels improve the skin by creating a controlled injury which tells the skin to make more healthy new collagen which is sent to the surface. While AHAs stimulate cell turnover and collagen synthesis, the addition of an antioxidant enhances faster improvement. Further, AHAs do cause increased sun sensitivity and daily use of your antioxidant will protect treated skin from increased sun damage as well.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) Salicylic Acid which is oil soluble only and therefore ideal for oily and acne skin. BHAs also combine nicely with milder AHAs such as Lactic Acid to create very effective in-office peels that address most of the signs of aging. BHAs are inflammatory and ideal also for rosacea and sensitive skin. As rosacea and acne  are  primarily caused by inflammation, the daily use of an antioxidant can help to control the inflammation leading to better results with BHAs and other products for acne and rosacea.

Retinoids (Retin-A, Retinol)

Retinoids work differently in the skin than antioxidants. Retinoids are antioxidants (Vitamin A) and we do see associated improvements including improved clarity, tone and texture. Retinoids reach the intended receptors in the skin, (RARs or RXRs) which upregulates the production of healthy new skin cells. As those healthy new skin cells travel to the skin surface, this causes a very quick shedding of older less healthy skin cells. That shedding is quite often perceived to be the benefit of Retinoid use. However, the shedding is more a side effect of the rapid cell renewal process. The magic of Retinoids  is the protection of collagen and elastic and the increased production of healthy new collagen. Using an antioxidant during the day while using retinoids in the evening provides optimal protection from increased sun sensitivity by correcting and preventing damage that has taken place in the skin to enhance the repair stimulated by Retinoids used in the evening.Use Retinol sparingly and on its own.

Peptides

Small proteins that stimulate repair in the skin. Peptides have gained much popularity in recent years as proof of efficacy continues to improve. While peptides stimulate collagen synthesis (but far less than retinoids) a daily antioxidant prevents further damage to ensure that the newly formed cells are healthy.

Regardless of the corrective products or treatments being used, the original source of the damage is still at work in the skin. Daily use of an l-ascorbic acid based antioxidant is necessary to slow the damage, stimulate better healing and recovery and  improved anti-ageing results

www.nualawoulfe.ie/index.php/bookings