L'ascorbic acid is the gold standard form of Vitamin C. It is the only form of Vitamin C that the skin readily uses for daily protection and repair and is 100% bioavailable in the skin while other forms of Vitamin C are not. It is important in your daily anti-ageing skin care arsenal as it enhances the protective properties of sunscreen as well as the results of other corrective products and procedures. This makes l-ascorbic acid based antioxidants not only an ideal daily preventative but also an effective topical product for enhancing the results of other anti-ageing treatments.
SkinCeuticals have recently testing CE Ferulic Serum after non-ablative laser treatments with documented improved healing times, less redness and post-laser swelling along with more efficient migration of excess melanin to the skin surface for notable improvement of discoloration. This ultimately led to Dr. Waibel testing Skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum after a fractional ablative laser treatment that demonstrated a decrease in redness, swelling and healing time along with the activation of basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF) Lasers Surg Med. Mar 2016 .
Microneedling and l-ascorbic acid
Microneedling is seeing increased popularity in recent years but has been around for quite some time. Previous microneedling devices were roller-based tools that required a technician to control the depth of penetration by adjusting pressure while rolling the device across the face. Newer versions are a pen device with pre-set depth options that once selected, control the depth of penetration across the entire face which provides a more even treatment. These treatments utilise serum-based products throughout to assist in the “glide” of the pen across the skin as well as calming irritation and stimulating the repair process.
Many of the microneedling manufacturers sell these serums with their devices which typically include a hyaluronic acid/peptide based serum, a botanical calming serum to be used during and after the microneedling treatments. Microneedling creates micro-channels in the skin that readily absorb products immediately after the treatment, microneedling also creates an opportunity for increased absorption and improved healing and results. Therefore, it is a good opportunity to apply an l-ascorbic acid based serum to promote healing and repair. An additional important quality for any product that is used with or immediately after micro needling is that it be a lightweight serum that does not contain silicone, parabens or other ingredients that can enter the micro channels and solidify in the skin. This can lead to the formation of granulomas and has been documented in one case in which 2 patients were treated with the same Vitamin C based product after micro needling http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24258303.
Microneedling is a great anti-ageing alternative to the downtime of lasers and desirable results can be seen with the addition of proven products with the treatment.
As L-ascorbic acid based antioxidant serums can be used for daily anti-ageing skincare they continue to be the gold standard of anti-ageing prevention and post-procedure correction.