The Skinceuticals Company which produces an advanced professional skincare range is part of the well known French skincare manufacturer L’Oreal. Their range of products is available direct through many UK medical aesthetic and cosmetic surgery clinics following consultation with a skin specialist.
The company has set out a promise in which is states;
“Our mission at SkinCeuticals is to improve skin health. Dedicated to this purpose, we make one simple promise – provide quality products backed by science.”
According to them, in order to maintain and improve skin health, an effective skincare regime must contain three fundamental elements – prevention, protection and correction. SkinCeuticals product philosophy and educational programs are built around these principles. Their line of advanced skincare products is designed to prevent future damage, protect healthy skin, and correct previous damage.
Founded in 1997 by Dr. Sheldon R. Pinell, SkinCeuticals discovers, develops, and delivers innovative dermatology products that improve the overall health and appearance of the skin. They use pure, pharmaceutical grade ingredients with proven scientific results and their formulations are based on optimal concentrations of active ingredients. Their entire skincare program works as a complete system for maximum improvement to skin health.
Research and innovation are at the core of the SkinCeuticals mission, and their dedication to science has established the brand as a leader in the advanced skincare arena.
As SkinCeuticals founding scientist and chief medical advisor, Dr. Sheldon Pinnell established SkinCeuticals as the skincare industry’s antioxidant authority. His groundbreaking, peer-reviewed research and comprehensive dermatologic knowledge resulted in the Duke University Antioxidant patent, which is now the gold standard for topical antioxidant formulations and licensed exclusively to SkinCeuticals.
Product Regime:
PREVENT
Even the best broad spectrum sunscreen can only block up to 55% of the damaging free radicals generated by Ultra Violet (UV) exposure from the sun, but SkinCeuticals antioxidants are specially designed and clinically proven to provide advanced protection from environmental ageing. When used together, SkinCeuticals antioxidants and sunscreens provide almost complete photo-protection; preventing photo-ageing, preventing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promoting skin health.
Studies prove antioxidants effectively neutralise chemical reactions generated when skin is exposed to these environmental insults.
PROTECT
The SkinCeuticals line of sunscreens provides broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Formulated with Z-COTE®, transparent zinc oxide, skin is protected from the entire spectrum of damaging UV rays, not just sunburn. Unlike the pasty, white zinc oxide sunscreens of the past , SkinCeuticals sunscreens are formulated with cosmetically elegant textures, which means increased protection using fewer sunscreen ingredients, reducing the chances of irritation.
CORRECT
Over time, regardless of lifestyle, skin begins to change, signs of aging may appear, and fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, and loss of elasticity become more visible.
SkinCeuticals corrective products combine reparative, lightening, and exfoliating ingredients to help rehabilitate damaged skin, restoring a healthier and more youthful appearance. The category includes products formulated specifically for delicate areas such as the eyes and lips.
CLEANSE & TONE
SkinCeuticals’ cleansers and toners include a variety of active ingredients such as hydroxy acids, botanical extracts, and cleansing agents to lift impurities and oils, gently exfoliate dead skin cells, and balance ph levels. Their cleansing and toning products leave the skin feeling fresh and clean without increased dryness or oiliness.
MOISTURISE
SkinCeuticals moisturisers are carefully formulated with multi-functional ingredients that nourish, protect, and exfoliate as they hydrate and restore elasticity.
What do they contain?
Antioxidants
UV Rays, infrared radiation, pollution and lifestyle factors generate damaging free radicals that prematurely age skin. SkinCeuticals antioxidants neutralise these unstable molecules, acting as a second line of defence against photo-damage and accelerated skin ageing. In addition to preventing damage, SkinCeuticals antioxidants have been proven to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, laxity and hyper pigmentation by neutralising free radicals and stimulating collagen production.
Products rely on combinations of antioxidants such as phloretin, alpha tocopherol, L-ascorbic acid and ferulic acid in varying concentrations to provide advanced environmental protection to defend skin against the reactive molecules that are known to cause cellular damage and DNA mutations.
Phloretin is a broad spectrum molecule, derived from the bark of apple trees, newly identified for its antioxidant properties and studied for use as a pigment-regulating and penetration-enhancing agent. It also displays a wide range of bioactivity such as anti-cancer, anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
L-Ascorbic Acid inhibits UVA and UVB induced damage, promotes collagen synthesis and has anti-inflammatory properties.
Alpha Tocopherol also known as vitamin E neutralises free radicals and helps with healing.
The plant based antioxidant Ferulic Acid neutralises free radicals, inhibits UV-induced melanogenesis (melanin production which cause brown, age spots) and has anti-inflammatory properties.
Products in the SkinCeuticals range which feature these antioxidants include:
AOX+ Eye gel, C E Ferulic ®, Phloretin CF, Phloretin CF Gel and Serum 10 AOX +.
What do they claim to treat?
The range of SkinCeuticals products includes treatment regimes targeted at preventing and correcting skin ageing using active ingredients which exfoliate, reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and stimulate the skin’s production of collagen.
Other treatment regimes target acne by preventing the production of excess oil and eliminating pore-clogging dead cell build-up to help heal existing blemishes and minimise future breakouts.
SkinCeuticals offers a variety of products that gently and safely address hyperpigmentation by lightening the appearance of existing pigment and preventing the formation of further discolouration.
They also offer targeted treatments that alleviate the redness of rosacea whilst keeping skin calm and comfortable.
Finally SkinCeuticals products can address issues such as dehydrated or sensitised skin using products to help repair and reinforce the skins barrier as well as a variety of gentle products to help soothe and promote the healing process.
Product range
CLEANSE AND TONE
Simply Clean, Gentle Cleanser, Foaming Cleanser, Equalising Toner, Blemish + Age Gel, Blemish + Age Solution
PREVENT
Phloretin CF, AOX+ Eye Gel, Phloretin CF Gel, C E Ferulic, Serum 10 AOX+
CORRECT
Blemish + Age Defense, Retexturing Activator, A.G.E. Eye Complex, A.G.E. Interrupter, Face Cream, Eye Balm, Skin Firming Cream, Eye Cream, Phyto Corrective Gel, Clarifying Clay Masque, Retinol, Face Balm, Epidermal Repair, Pigment Regulator
PROTECT
Advanced Sun Defence, Ultra Facial Defence, Physical UV Defence SPF30, Sheer Mineral UV Defence, Brightening UV Defence
MOISTURISE
Emollience, Daily Moisture, Hydrating B5, Hydrating B5 Masque
Reported side effects
When using the Retinol product care is needed. Use the product twice a week for the first two weeks to ensure tolerance. Thereafter, usage can be slowly built up to nightly.
Clinical Data
SkinCeuticals hold their clinical studies to the highest medical and pharmaceutical standards with dermatologists overseeing their testing. They perform biomarker studies to assess a final formulation’s action within the skin, as well as evaluating a product’s efficacy on actual patients’ skin. As a result, the findings of their clinical studies translate exactly to how their products perform when used in the real world, on real skin.
Their first clinical study on vitamin C paved the way for antioxidant formulation, and set SkinCeuticals on the path to becoming one of the skincare industry’s most respected product innovators.
Key Studies:
Topical L-Ascorbic Acid Percutanous Absorption Studies
Pinnell, S.R., et al.,Topical L-Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies.
Dermatol Surg 27:2, 137-142, 2001
SkinCeuticals was the first to discover the exact formulation specifications a topical antioxidant must meet in order to penetrate, and protect the skin. These parameters have become the gold standard for antioxidant formulation.
Photodamage and Oxidative Stress and Protection Provided by Topical Antioxidants
Pinnell, S.R, J Am Acad Dermatol. 48(1): 1-19, 2003.
In order to provide full-spectrum protection against environmentally caused skin damage, it is imperative to use a topical antioxidant daily. This added protection from free radicals has been proven to prevent cellular changes deep within the skin.
Sunscreens Inadequately Protect Against UVA-Induced Free Radicals
Haywood, R., et al, J Invest Dermatol 2006;121:862-868
Sunscreen is essential for shielding skin from UVA and UVB rays, but this pivotal SkinCeuticals study found that SPF alone only protects skin from up to 55% of damaging free radicals and that the addition of a SkinCeuticals topical antioxidant provides comprehensive skin protection.
A Topical Antioxidant Solution Containing Vitamins C and E Stabilized by Ferulic Acid Provides Protection for Human Skin Against Damage Caused by Ultraviolet Irradiation.
Pinnell, S. et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 59(3):418-25, 2008.
With SkinCeuticals third-generation topical antioxidant, C E Ferulic, it is possible to provide the skin with eight times its natural photoprotection, as well as unprecedented anti-ageing results.
Protective Effects of a Topical Antioxidant Containing Vitamin C, Ferulic Acid and Phloretin Against UV-Induced Photodamage
Oresajo C, Stephens T, Hino PD, Law RM, Yatskayer M, Foltis P, Pillai S, Pinnell SR.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008 Dec;7(4):290-7.
With the addition of phloretin, SkinCeuticals antioxidants have been clinically proven to reverse premature signs of ageing while protecting skin from free radicals and other reactive molecules that are known to cause DNA mutations.
Product-specific Clinical Studies:
Phloretin CF - In vivo Phloretin CF significantly reduces mean sunburn count vs. placebo when exposed to solar-simulated light and provides a high level of protection against UV-induced redness when exposed to solar-simulated light.
Phloretin CF Gel - In an evaluation of UV-induced erythema (redness), Phloretin CF Gel demonstrated the same substantial protection against oxidative damage as Phloretin CF Serum.
AOX+ Eye Gel - In a 12-week clinical trial, AOX+ Eye Gel significantly reduced fine lines, puffiness, and under-eye bags while improving skin tone. The clinical trial was conducted on 25 subjects ages 40-60 using one morning application daily of AOX+ Eye Gel.
C E Ferulic - A 96% reduction in sunburnt cells in UV-exposed skin. Reduces the occurrence of DNA mutations associated with the formation of skin cancer.
Serum 10 AOX+ - Studies show that when formulated properly (as all SkinCeuticals antioxidants are), a 10% concentration of L-ascorbic acid is readily absorbed by the skin.
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