Sugar and Ageing-
The science is: When you have sugar molecules in
your system, they bombard the body's cells like a meteor shower—glomming onto
fats and proteins in a process known as glycation. This forms advanced
glycation end products (commonly shortened to AGEs), which cause protein fibres
to become stiff and malformed. Much of what is known about glycation's ill
effects comes from diabetes research: The connective-tissue damage and chronic
inflammation resulting from diabetics' sustained high blood sugar can lead to
debilitating conditions, such as cataracts, Alzheimer's, vascular tightening,
and diseases of the pancreas and liver etc.
Before addressing how the skin is affected by
glycation, let’s briefly review its structure. In order to provide a solid
support to external influences, our skin consists of two layers: an outer layer
called the epidermis and the layer below that called the dermis. New cells
generated by the dermis are continually being pushed upwards to replace old
cells, providing essential support to the epidermis. The dermis itself consists
mainly of an extracellular matrix comprised of proteins, especially collagen
fibres, elastin, and various glycoproteins’, all of which are synthesized by
major skin cells called fibroblasts. It also contains hyaluronic acid, which
belongs to a class of large, sugar-like compounds known as glycosaminoglycans
(GAGs). Hyaluronic acid is capable of holding up to 1,000 times its own weight
in water and helps to bind water in the skin, providing essential support for
the collagen framework as well as protecting the skin’s elasticity.
There are several different types of collagen in the
body. The major structural components in the skin are collagen types I and III,
which account for over 70% and 15%, respectively of its dry weight and provide
the dermis with tensile strength and stability.5 Another type of collagen—type
IV—is responsible for the mechanical stability of the skin’s scaffolding, known
as the basement membrane, which lies in the inner lining of the epidermis where
it connects to the dermis.The proteins in skin most prone to glycation are the
same ones that make a youthful complexion so plump and springy—collagen and
elastin. When those proteins hook up with damages sugars, they become
discoloured, weak, and less supple; this shows up on the skin's surface as
wrinkles, sagginess, and a loss of skin radiance. The presence of AGEs also
makes the complexion more vulnerable to UV light and cigarette smoke. The
glucose makes the cells abnormal plus it creates free radicals.
Glycation is part of the normal cycle of life for
our skin. It’s happening right now, to all of us. It can even be measured: The
cross-links formed between sugars and proteins emit a fluorescence, which
scientists can capture using black light complexion-analysis cameras. If you
take a fluorescent image of children, their faces will come out very dark - but
with each decade, the AGEs, and therefore the brightness, will accumulate more
and more. The external signs of glycation show up around the age of 30 or 35,
when a built-up sun damage, environmental oxidative stress, hormonal changes,
and the development of AGEs begins to result in a-g-e. When you're younger,
your body has more resources to ward off damage, and you're producing more
collagen. Skinceuticals have produced an anti-ageing skin-care line
specifically addressing glycation. When you reach a certain age, these sugar
by-products begin to build up at the same time that your threshold for damage
is getting lower.
Even if we could completely eliminate all types of
sugar from our diets, we shouldn't: It's an essential fuel for cells and energy
metabolism, critical to survival. For most people with normal levels of
glucose, the glycation process is something that happens gradually over the
course of a lifetime, and it's really not that big of a deal, but diet and
lifestyle choices can affect how quickly the effects can be seen on the skin.
One of the key signs of glycation is the yellowing of skin often seen
prematurely in smokers. Smoke reduces antioxidants in skin, and smokers'
vitamin C and E are being used up trying to take care of all this oxidation
that's caused by smoking, so they don't have a lot of antioxidant potential to
take care of normal processes like glycation. And if you add a
high-glycemic-index diet, you're just asking for trouble."
While glycation can't be completely stopped, it can
be slowed by “AGE busters" that could break the cross-links once they've
already formed—something that would apply to a number of diseases as well as
skin ageing. From a dietary point of view , the culprits white sugar, high-fructose corn
syrup etc —which studies have shown increases the rate of glycation by 10
times, compared with glucose—and simple carbs. Even though all carbs get
converted into sugar, when you eat the good ones, like brown rice and
whole-grain bread, you get less glucose, and you get it more slowly.
Skin care too makes a difference, glycation is
widely recognised as a major cause of ageing, and lots of comprehensive
anti-aging creams contain AGE fighters too. Green tea has been proven to
significantly interfere with the glycation process while stimulating collagen
synthesis—so if you're using a product containing green tea (or drinking it
regularly); you're already protecting your skin. Anything that stimulates the
fibroblasts to build new collagen is going to help eradicate damage; Retinoids
fall in to this category. Since your body has a process where old collagen is
broken down by enzymes and new collagen is generated, what's going to happen is
that the old glycated collagen will eventually be eliminated and replaced by
un-glycated collagen.
Blueberries help with Skin Renewal
Blueberries possess supercharged antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory powers and are packed with phytonutrients called anthocyanins
that are responsible for their deep colour. Scientific studies have revealed
that anthocyanins such as those found in blueberries naturally avert
glycation-induced damage by stabilizing the collagen matrix, promoting collagen
biosynthesis, and improving microcirculation.
The first evidence of the protective effect of
blueberries came from studies in glaucoma and cataracts, which form part of the
multitude of type 2 diabetic complications that are accelerated by
glycation-induced damage to collagen structures in the eye. Researchers found
that bilberry (blueberry’s close European cousin) extract halted the formation
of cataracts in 48 of 50 patients and protected against glaucoma by
strengthening collagen integrity in the eye.
More recently, researchers have turned their
attention to the skin-rejuvenating power of blueberries. What they have found
is that blueberry extracts obtained from the stem, leaf, and fruit all exert a
protective effect against protein glycation, AGE formation, and oxidative
stress, with the blueberry stems exhibiting the greatest AGE-inhibitory
activity.
One main cause of visible ageing is glycation, which
occurs when excess glucose molecules bind to collagen and elastin fibres and
prompt the formation of advanced glycation end-products (A.G.E.s) that lead to
severe skin wrinkling. Skinceuticals A.G.E. Interrupter is a unique treatment
formulated with 4% blueberry extract, 30% Proxylane and 0.2% phytosphingosine
to help prevent the glycation process and correct severe signs of aging in
mature skin.
• Blueberry
extract slows down the process of advanced glycation end-product (A.G.E.)
formation, preventing collagen and elastin fibres from becoming rigid
·
While
reducing MMPs, blueberries also protect collagen by increasing the activity of
tissue inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinases, in effect, activating
endogenous systems to halt the breakdown of collagen.
The anti-inflammatory properties of blueberries also
have a valuable role to play in preventing direct damage to skin cells, which
occurs when glycation directly activates inflammatory mediators and cytokines
that break down collagen. Blueberry polyphenols overcome this damage by
reducing TNF-alpha-induced up-regulation of various inflammatory mediators such
as IL-8, MCP-1, and ICAM-1.
• Proxylane™
stimulates GAG synthesis, restoring water and nutrients to the dermal-epidermal
junction
• Phytosphingosine
helps protect the skin’s barrier to alleviate discomfort associated with dry,
ageing skin
The signs of intrinsic ageing, caused by internal
factors such as hormonal shifts and metabolic slowdown, are most evident in the
delicate eye area.Skinceuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex is a three-dimensional
treatment that contains a unique combination of ingredients to dramatically
improve dark circles, wrinkles, and puffiness caused by intrinsic aging.
• Proxylane™
reduces wrinkles and crow's feet
• Blueberry
extract helps prevent future wrinkles and crow's feet
• Complex
of flavonoids and synergistic peptides reduces the appearance of dark circles
and diminishes puffiness and under-eye bags
• Optical
diffusers improve radiance in tired, dull eyes
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